Uma noite deliciosa que tinha, como pano de fundo, a maravilhosa catedral iluminada! A pé, voltávamos do restaurante contemplando a lua cheia lá no céu e, na terra, nossa barriga: cheia, feliz, satisfeita – tal como nós! Sim, nos sentíamos felizes, satisfeitos e cantarolantes. Jamais esquecerei o que aconteceu naquele momento. A princípio, até achei que tinha bebido além da conta, já que via uma cena inusitada e engraçada: num é que topamos com umas senhorinhas tão contentes quanto nós, muito mais alcoolizadas que nós, muito mais idosas que nós, mas tão alegres quanto nós. Elas cantarolavam festivamente pelas ruas de Lyon… Um ‘canto’ que me mostrava o quanto podemos ser livres, e que nos ‘perder’ de vez em quando faz com que posteriormente nos ‘encontremos’ mais gentis conosco mesmo. Lembro que elas, umas agarradas às outras, me passaram a ideia de que aproveitarmos as pessoas que amamos é obrigação, pois elas podem nos deixar sem darmos permissão. Por muito tempo elas me vinham à memória representando a importância do procurar viver num “lugar” onde não existem fórmulas para ser feliz e que, pra isso, basta curtirmos ao máximo a vida, que é uma festa, mas é curta. E hoje, mesmo tudo isso tendo pouco a ver com o assunto principal deste post, a lembrança das senhorinhas vem com um quê de especial, já que quem me trouxe elas de volta foi Bocuse…
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BOCUSE
e as
SENHORINHAS
DE LYON,
portadores
da
alegria
.
Bocuse nasceu em Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or, mas foi Lyon que o consagrou como um dos primeiros exponentes da “nouvelle cuisine” (arte de reinterpretar a tradicional cozinha francesa, porém, com mais leveza – tanto no visual, com pratos mais elegantemente montados, e sempre valorizando ingredientes frescos, com menos creme de leite e manteiga).
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De norte a sul, de leste a oeste 😛 , Bocuse também comandou uma cadeia de brasseries em Lyon: o Le Nord (norte), cervejaria diferente com cozinha de mercado – mercado Lyonnaise, claro. O Le Sud (sul) – cozinha mediterrânea – no L’Est (leste) cozinha de viagens – no L’Ouest (oeste) que pratica uma gastronomia das ilhas; no L’Argenson a cuisine é bourgeoise 🙄 e a Brasserie dês Lumières. Sem falar nos restaurantes Fond Rose, Marguerite e Le Comptoir de l’Est. Todos têm uma coisa em comum: uma cozinha simples e verdadeira, com gostos autênticos, credo culinário defendido com paixão pelo chef Paul Bocuse. O verdadeiro império faz bonito na paisagem gastronômica de Lyon.
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Nenhum a ver com as iguarias servidas no restaurante estrelado em Collonges, já que cada um explora um aspecto diferente da culinária francesa com novas abordagens, mas sempre praticando a técnica da clássica cozinha francesa.
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O chef valorizava e deixava ingredientes de alta qualidade “falarem por si mesmos”. Alguém falou em alta qualidade?
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Sim, é o caso do principal Restaurante de Bocuse que fica na sua cidade Natal: L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges, a apenas 20 minutos de Lyon, expert no quesito ‘qualidade’.
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Haja visto a Soupe aux Truffes noires V.G.E. A sopa com trufas negras, criada em 1975 por Bocuse no Palácio do Elysée, foi servida ao ex-presidente francês Valéry Giscard d’Estaing – por isso as iniciais V.G.E.
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Desde então, a sopa presidencial continuou reinando, pois é o item mais TOP do Menu Degustação do luxuoso (e caro) restaurante 3 estrelas de Bocuse e m Collonges.
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Foie Gras com molho de maracujá / Soupe aux truffes noires V.G.E. / Coquilles Sainte Jacques com Batata souflé
Rouget em capa de batata crocante / Granité de vinho Beaujolais
Volaille de Bresse en vessie “Mère Fillioux” e Morilles / Seleção de queijos / Gâteau président Maurice Bernachon
Petit fours e chocolates
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Nem só os ingredientes são de alta qualidade, as bebidas seguem o mesmo padrão. A adega do restaurante é daquelas que podemos chamar de excepcional.
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Outro exemplo de ingrediente de alta qualidade é o ‘Volaille de Bresse’. No restaurante, o frango de Bresse é apresentado ao comensal numa bexiga que o envolve para ser cozido. Na mesa, a bexiga é removida e exibe trufas colocadas sob a fina pele do frango.
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Abrindo um parênteses só pro quesito ‘cultura inútil’… O rei dos frangos tem as cores da bandeira da França: plumagem branca, perninhas azuis, crista vermelha (nós fomos em Bresse para conhecer a “pessoa”… 😆 )
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Claro, os “Glorieuses de Bresse” são importantes, tanto que tinham ninguém menos que Bocuse como ‘embaixador’.
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O chef divulgava a iguaria de todas as maneiras. Principalmente na meca das papilas gustativas, os Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse.
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Os Halles é o marché mais chic de Lyon. Eu não sei dizer se é um empreendimento de Bocuse ou apenas batizado com seu nome. De uma forma ou de outra é um luxo ter um mercado deste porte batizado com seu nome, e mostra a importância do chef na cidade que é a capital mundial da gastronomia.
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Cada corredor do Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse é a personificação da tentação.
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Reúne toda a riqueza gastronômica de Lyon que pode ser degustada e comprada dos melhores artesãos da região.
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Tudo muito chic, bem montado e fresco, faz lembrar um shopping gastronômico com suas boutiques: do caviar, passando por queijos, pães, vinhos, charcuteries, chocolates, doces, carnes, trufas, peixes, frutos do mar, até flores e restaurantes.
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Dá vontade de passar uns 3 dias experimentando tudo deste lugar que também é portador da alegria, assim como as senhorinhas de Lyon.
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Falando sério, os Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse é uma instituição emblemática da excelência gastronômica lyonaise e referência internacional para gourmets.
.
.
Até aula com chef estrelado…
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.
Além, dessa meca da gastronomia, a cidade de Lyon, no intuito de prestar uma grande homenagem a Bocuse, mandou pintar um monumental mural do chef em frente ao Les Halles Bocuse. O tributo a Paul Bocuse foi criado para celebrar os 50 anos consecutivos de suas três estrelas.
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A noite, acontece uma animação ilumino-técnica. Produtos, utensílios, pequenos cozinheiros e garçons, os livros de todos esses anos que comprovam as estrelas e o galo são coadjuvantes nos jogos de projeção que o fazem vivo.
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.
Bem gente, para num bom francês pronunciar corretamente ‘Bocuse’ temos de fazer biquinho. Só assim sai um bonito ‘Bokiuzzz’. Esse mesmo biquinho também é feito quando temos vontade de chorar. Pois é… quem é amante da gastronomia fez o biquinho para chorar por ‘Bokiuzzz’, esse francês que nasceu em 1926, atravessou 2 guerras, numa delas ganhou a tatuagem de um galo e neste 20 de janeiro de 2018 foi encantar o céu com suas guloseimas inovadoras que tanto contribuíram para a gastronomia, não só francesa, mas mundial (até euzinha me inspirei na sua sopa pra fazer a minha clique no link CREME DE AIPO EM CROSTA FOLHADA DE GERGELIM)
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Agora sim, o céu vai ter muitas estrelas vermelhas, brancas e azuis, já que, como disse sua mulher, Bocuse é um portador da bandeira francesa, o que me faz lembrar daquelas senhorinhas de Lyon, portadoras da alegria! Nem conheci o chef, mas sim, sinto que, assim como nós, assim como aquelas senhorinhas, ele também andava cantarolando pelas ruas de Lyon…
.
Paul Bocuse – L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges
40 Rue de la Plage – 69660 – Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or
.
O Bocuse d’Or, campeonato de gastronomia criado por Bocuse, é dos mais prestigiados do mundo e entre as muitas condecorações e prêmios que ganhou na sua vida de chef estão… Nem vou ficar citando medalhas, chef disso, chef daquilo, chef do século, estrelas Michelin, muito menos na mudança do nome do restaurante Escoffier para ‘Restaurante Bocuse’ 😛 , porque na verdade, Bocuse é uma verdadeira instituição francesa! Mas não aguento, só vou dizer que sua brilhante carreira lhe trouxe o título de “Meilleur Ouvrier de France”, distinção dificílima de ser obtida.
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